Sounds like great fun Randy!  Get to your  local library, get the topo maps,
compare the contour lines. That will  tell you which way the river runs.  and
other useful stuff.   Cheers!  LC

Randy Bohn <randybohn@...> wrote:
Happy New Year!

      Trying to plan a trip this summer. Something new.

Has anybody ever run the Shikwakwa River? Glad this is e-mail cause I
sure can't pronounce it!   Looking at maps. If we set in at Shoals
Provincial Park east of Chapleau, we could get up into Windermere
River which ties into Shikwamkwa River. Then run the river and take
out at Highway 101 on Whitefish Lake.
      One of the big "if's" on that route is, which direction does the
Windermere River run?  Another area we would need help on is, shuttle
service. Can anybody recommend someone out of Chapleau or possibly out
of Wawa?

Thanks,
         Randy

Mechanicsville, Va.






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I waiting to start canoeing in May! Anyone agree?
EasternOntario, and north of.

I've been a member here for a few months and thought I would make a
post that some here might be interested in.  Myself being a Quetico
Park traveler every year and keeping detail Trip Reports of the area I
was approached 3 years ago to start compiling Trip Reports from
several of my friends on the net.  So if there is someone interested
in Trip Reports on BWCA, Quetico, or even a few Off Topic reports drop
me an emil I'll send you one.  The CD's are free I do accept donations
it cover cost if you so choose to do so.  This years CD has close to
200 Trip Reports and offers a lot of information of the area.  It's a
great Trip planning tool.
My email is  queticopassage@... if your interested.
Thank You Quetico Passage

The lakes in my area are free of ice now. Our little lake-- Silver Lake --had
the ice move
out last Wednesday. The water is still cold -- about 6-9 Cº.
We are decorating the bathroom in the cabin and I am so tempted to take hours
off for a
canoe outing.

Hi Everyone:

This August some friends and I are planning to canoe
in Northwestern Ontario from the road to Pickle Lake ,
or from a fly-in destination (DeLesseps Lake) to Lake
St Joseph and then on to Slate Falls via the Cat River
System.  Has anyone done this section?  At what point
would you start on the Pickle Lake road and how are
the portages heading toward Miniss Lake?  Any
information would be most helpful.

My e-mail address is philipslayton@...

Thanks

Phil Slayton

I have a cedar strip canoe for sale that I built
myself and I am very proud of.  Due to various reasons
I am selling it along with various extras, I would be
willing to discuss further through e-mail if someone
is at all interested.

Thank You

Randy Keip


__________________________________________________
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i'm planning to go on a 10 to 14 day canoe trip to wabakimim park.  up
to whitewater lake intested??? please contact me....canoe/cabin
available...hopefully in aug. or july i will decide on whatever
response i get.

my name is Randy Im a 49 yr old male Living in Muskoka working as a  carpenter
with a trailer and my 2 canoes on the Big East River.I'm an  avid canoe'er and
camper and look forward to chatting and sharing  adventures with fellow members

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have knowone to join me to Algonquin, for a 4 night trip on July
10th,11th,12th,13th and out on the 14th. I planed it easy Put-in
Access at Rock Lake, 1st Pen Lk, 2nd Welcome Lk, 3rd Harry Lk, 4th Pen Lk.

I'm going to relax, do some fishing, I hear theres good Brook Trout at
Welcome and Harry Lake. Intrested??

I'm driving a 16'6" Kevlar (52lbs)

i randy...in arush...email later

randy daigneault <krustybud100@...> wrote:  my name is Randy Im a 49 yr old
male Living in Muskoka working as a  carpenter with a trailer and my 2 canoes on
the Big East River.I'm an  avid canoe'er and camper and look forward to chatting
and sharing  adventures with fellow members

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi. in a rush...email later...i need to do research on where u are located...i
live in thunder bay.....

Timothy <ciderspy@...> wrote:  I have knowone to join me to Algonquin, for a
4 night trip on July
10th,11th,12th,13th and out on the 14th. I planed it easy Put-in
Access at Rock Lake, 1st Pen Lk, 2nd Welcome Lk, 3rd Harry Lk, 4th Pen Lk.

I'm going to relax, do some fishing, I hear theres good Brook Trout at
Welcome and Harry Lake. Intrested??

I'm driving a 16'6" Kevlar (52lbs)






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i'm still looking and will continue to find someone to come with
me...lots of lake rivers fish,,plenty of fish...

Has anyone converted a solo canoe to a tandem?
Ocassionally, I would like to take a partner with me in my SWIFT
solo.  I'm thinking of making up a drop-in seat to fit directly in
front of the standard adjustable seat.  Not a lot of room but
adequate.  Any comments or suggestions?  Thanks, JR

JR

I should think a real solo canoe is too small to be converted to a
tandem, that's why we own several tandem canoes converted to solo
boats. Bit demanding on technique but manageble and plenty of space to
"walk" around.

Rudolf
(The Netherlands).

--- In canoeontario@..., "evesearth" <evesearth@y...>
wrote:
>
> Has anyone converted a solo canoe to a tandem?
> Ocassionally, I would like to take a partner with me in my SWIFT
> solo.  I'm thinking of making up a drop-in seat to fit directly in
> front of the standard adjustable seat.  Not a lot of room but
> adequate.  Any comments or suggestions?  Thanks, JR
>

Hi John,
A few years ago I bought a temporary canoe seat, it's a strip of canvas
with stainless steal hooks that go over the gunwales.  You should be
able to find one at your local outfitter.  I've posted a picture in the
photo section under "seat"
Paul

--- In canoeontario@..., "evesearth" <evesearth@y...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone converted a solo canoe to a tandem?
> Ocassionally, I would like to take a partner with me in my SWIFT
> solo.  I'm thinking of making up a drop-in seat to fit directly in
> front of the standard adjustable seat.  Not a lot of room but
> adequate.  Any comments or suggestions?  Thanks, JR
>

Hi Rudolf
   Thanks for your reply
   My Swift "Shearwater" solo is 16-4", just as long as my "Mad River" tandem.
   What I'm concerned about is: stability, weight distribution, access between
thwarts, etc. ....

Rudolf Werner <ira@...> wrote:
   JR

I should think a real solo canoe is too small to be converted to a
tandem, that's why we own several tandem canoes converted to solo
boats. Bit demanding on technique but manageble and plenty of space to
"walk" around.

Rudolf
(The Netherlands).

--- In canoeontario@..., "evesearth" <evesearth@y...>
wrote:
>
> Has anyone converted a solo canoe to a tandem?
> Ocassionally, I would like to take a partner with me in my SWIFT
> solo.  I'm thinking of making up a drop-in seat to fit directly in
> front of the standard adjustable seat.  Not a lot of room but
> adequate.  Any comments or suggestions?  Thanks, JR
>







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

JR

I have just looked at a Swift "Shearwater" on the Internet (I have
never seen one down here in the Netherlands) and it reminds me of a
Slipper by Mad River.
The thwarts seem to be no problem but the bows are rather slender and
sharply build, so stability will become a problem (sitting so close to
the bow). Another problem could be the draught of the boat when loaded
with two people in it; it will increase enormous I think leaving the
boat unpredictable and in rougher water it will paddle very wet.

Mind you since I do not know the boat, nor do any longer trips, I
would advise you to seek advice from someone more experienced (I used
to paddle a lot, solo for hours on end, but since a neuromusculair
disease its limited to fifteen to twenty minutes). Therefore I
consider myself a theorist.

Rudolf

John(?)

I've just looked at a picture on the Internet of a Swift "Shearwater"
and it reminds me of a Slipper by Mad River. The thwarts look well
placed to mount a seat front and aft. Only problem is that the ends of
the canoe are very slim so I fear that stability is going to be a
problem. Another problem I anticipate is carrying a cargo and two
people; the draught will increase enormous, I think making the boat
unpredictable and less (to say the least) dry in rough water.
Please bear in mind that I do not know this canoe so I hope somebody
else will give you advice as well.

Rudolf

--- In canoeontario@..., jr goldsmith <evesearth@y...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Rudolf
>   Thanks for your reply
>   My Swift "Shearwater" solo is 16-4", just as long as my "Mad
River" tandem.
>   What I'm concerned about is: stability, weight distribution,
access between thwarts, etc. ....
>
> Rudolf Werner <ira@w...> wrote:
>   JR
>
> I should think a real solo canoe is too small to be converted to a
> tandem, that's why we own several tandem canoes converted to solo
> boats. Bit demanding on technique but manageble and plenty of space
to
> "walk" around.
>
> Rudolf
> (The Netherlands).
>
> --- In canoeontario@..., "evesearth" <evesearth@y...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone converted a solo canoe to a tandem?
> > Ocassionally, I would like to take a partner with me in my SWIFT
> > solo.  I'm thinking of making up a drop-in seat to fit directly in
> > front of the standard adjustable seat.  Not a lot of room but
> > adequate.  Any comments or suggestions?  Thanks, JR
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

This trip report is dedicated to the memory of Herb Pohl. We met oh
so very briefly but, the impression he left will be etched forever
in my memory. I'll carry a little of his spirit wherever my future
path may lead. It was an honor to share the trail with you Herb! I
wish we'd had a longer walk together.




... I had originally intended to do a 2 week solo in the Boundary
Waters in 2006. A true solo. No partners shadowing me in their own
canoes. No dog. Just Nibi and the wilderness (and any travelers I
happened to encounter along the way). I had my route all planned
out. It would take me through some old familiar places but would
also take me to some corners of the wilderness that would be new to
me. And, some very remote areas where I was bound to be truly on my
own. More than with any other trip planning, I was especially
salivating over this one.

Then there came a post from Hoz (Jose Jovan) on the Canoe Country
Bulletin Board (CCBB), asking for anyone interested in doing a
Pukaskwa trip with him. His timing could not have been more perfect.
I'd done a 3 day Apostle Islands kayak trip last summer which had
done nothing but whet my appetite to paddle more of Gitchee-Gumi's
cystal clear waters. Then, there was Wilderness Mama's report (on
the CCBB) of a trip they did last summer that touched on Pukaskwa. I
could always do my 2 week Boundary Waters trip another year. How
often would I get a chance to paddle the Pukaskwa? The decision was
made fairly quickly.

I was originally 1 of 7 that answered the call. My initial plan was
to rent a kayak from the outfitters we'd be using (Naturally
Superior Adventures -- NSA). Then, a friend of mine briefly got
interested in the trip -- and he had a pair of kayaks of which he'd
gladly loan me one. It turned out that the Puk trip was just too
close to a Philmont trip he was committed to so he backed out -- but
I could still use his kayak. The only wrinkle I could see was how
was I going to pack 2 weeks of gear -- especially food -- into a sea
kayak?

Jose came to my rescue. One of the other trip members had a couple
of Kruger Sea Wind decked canoes. He wanted to catamaran the 2 of
them together but needed a partner. Jose put us in touch with each
other and voila, I had a craft for the trip that could handle most
of what the lake could throw at it AND carry enough gear for 2
months, let alone 2 weeks. Mick, who lives in the D.C. area,
insisted that I get acquainted with the Sea Wind ahead of time and
so, I brought her back after my visit with my daughter in West
Virginia in April.

Eventually, would be partners dwindled away until only Mick, Hoz and
I were left. Then, with only weeks to go, Mick had some dental work
done. Somehow, the dentist managed to hit a nerve wrong when
administering the novacaine. Result, severe case of locked up jaw
for Mick. It became clear that it wasn't going to loosen in time.
So, in the end, it was just Hoz and I. But yes, I was free to go
ahead and use the Sea Wind.

And so it was that on the morning of July 6, at about 8:00 AM, I, in
my green Forester with Sea Wind on top, hit the highway, headed
north towards an adventure unlike any that I'd experienced before.




"The thing I like most about the wilderness" Herb said "is that
there are no bosses out here. No one to tell you what to do and when
to do it"

I corrected him; "Actually, there is one boss. Her name is Mother
Nature".

"Ah yes, that is very true" he replied in his thick accent "and that
is a very significant point. You end up realizing that you are only
a very small speck in the midst of this great vastness. But, the
only boss you have to listen to is her."


-Larry

The drive to Duluth was uneventful. Even passing through St. Paul
was relatively painless given that I breezed through about an hour
or two after rush hour. I reached Duluth at about noon and opted to
take the lakeshore drive up to Two Harbors rather than zip up the
expressway. The vacation had started!

I stopped at a couple of places along the lakeshore drive. The lake
had a mild chop on it, a slight breeze, and a heavy haze hanging the
air. Not really a good day for pictures of the lake but, I did
manage a few weak attempts including this one.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-007.jpg


After passing through Two Harbors, I decided I should target some
falls or rapids since the lake wasn't cooperating. I didn't want to
stop at anywhere popular like Gooseberry Falls though. I was looking
for something more intimate. When I came to the trail head at Split
Rock River, I knew I'd found what I was looking for. There were a
few cars in the parking lot but I knew I'd encounter far fewer
people than if I'd stopped at Gooseberry.

I grabbed my camera and tripod. I should have taken the time to grab
water and put on hiking shoes and a hat as well. Equiped nicely for
taking photos but poorly for a hike, I headed on down the relatively
easy, somewhat level trail.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-011.jpg



The map showed a loop heading up along the west side of the river,
crossing over, and returning on the east side. About 5 miles round
trip should have translated into about a 2.5 hour round trip at a
leisurely 2mph hiking pace. Given the time of day, this was just
about perfect for me -- I thought.

Maybe a half mile in, I came across a hiker registry box and a side
trail to this delightful waterfall on a feeder creek.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-012.jpg


I returned to the main trail which eventually ran close to the
river, revealing many small cascades which made ready subjects for
me to practice using my new camera with.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-017.jpg


There were even some flowers -- mostly harebells and tiny, daisy
like blossoms -- growing out of the rocks for me to try to contrast
with the rocks and water.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-024.jpg


While it was possible to get to some of the cascades, many more
could only be glimpsed through breaks in the trees.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-032.jpg


Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink. It was surprisingly
warm back in the woods and I was sweating profusely. I quickly
realized my mistake in not bringing any water along. It was very
tempting to drink straight from the river. At least the trail was
mostly easy with just a few rough spots of loose shale to worry
about. I would have felt better with hiking boots on but my tennis
shoes were working ok for me -- even with cotton socks!

Some of the cascades were good sized.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-037.jpg



One of the theories surrounding how the Split Rock River got its
name says that it was named after these two isolated pillars
overlooking the river.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-055.jpg

I guess, if that's true, if the river were to be named from this
picture, they'd have to call it Split Rock and Fat Old Guy River.


Between the cascades, the river -- what there was of it -- flowed
gently through steep walled gorges.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-056.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-064.jpg



I really loved the colors in the rocks!

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-065.jpg



Two hours into the hike and I hadn't even reached the river
crossing! I took a couple more pictures, then reluctantly headed
back towards the car.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-068.jpg



I guess my photography had slowed me down more than I anticipated. I
later found that where I turned around was probably about 15 minutes
short of the crossing. I didn't stop for pictures on the way back
and was back at the car in about an hour.

Back at the car, I gulped some water -- warmed in the sun of course -
- and hit the road again. I stopped briefly at the Cross River for
some pictures of the falls there.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-01-074.jpg


When I arrived in Grand Marais, I stopped at Sven & Ole's for a
slice of pizza and very welcome cup of Sprite. The place was packed.
I didn't stay long before heading up the road a few miles to the
Wedgewood Motel. I'd stayed here a few times before but the
proprietors, Peter & Amy, and I had a running joke about me being
the "best guest they'd never met" since I usually arrived very late
at night and left early in the morning. I have now lost that status
as I did arrive early enough to meet them. They were as pleasant to
meet as I had anticipated.

I was exhausted from my hike and content that my vacation had
started well. It didn't take long to drift off to sleep.

-Larry

The storm I'd encountered in Schrieber caught up to me at the
outfitters that night. The thunder and lightning show combined with
the fact that Hoz had the heat turned up to high kept me from
sleeping as well as I would have liked. Of course, there was a
little excitement involved as well.

We got up fairly early, each took a shower, and did our last minute
packing. By then, it was time for breakfast. After breakfast, we
still had time to kill since our shuttle driver wasn't scheduled
until 9:00. I killed the time on the point just outside the lodge.

There were plenty of wildflowers growing on the rocks, including
Potentillas, Harebells and these tiny plants with yellow blossoms:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-003.jpg



The storms from the previous day had mostly moved on and the sun lit
up the rocks as it rose.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-007.jpg



There was a bit of a mist, and a chill, in the air. The mist
softened the sunrise and created a pastel landscape.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-009.jpg



There was just enough wind to produce small rollers along the shore.
Beyond the sandbar at the top of this picture is the Michipicotan
River.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-013.jpg



Waves lapping the beach at sunrise.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-020.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-021.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-031.jpg



We asked Dave, owner of Naturally Superior Adventures, where people
normally take out at the end of the trip. He said that normally, you
enter the mouth of the river and make a left turn, landing on a
large sandy beach there. We looked at where the river entered the
lake. The current was fighting the waves from the lake making a
huge, choppy eddy. How the heck was a person supposed to paddle
through there? Dave also showed us alternative landings along the
lake shore. That was better.

Finally, our driver showed up and the 3 of us piled into Hoz's van
for the trip to Hattie Cove. All along the 100+ mile drive, the
skies darkened, the wind picked up and the temperatures plummeted.
We also drove through occasional light showers.


-Larry

It was another beautiful morning when I awoke about 6 AM. I quickly
packed up my things and spent a little time with Peter & Amy. Then,
I headed back into town to have breakfast at South of the Border
Cafe. After breakfast, I headed over to the Super America. Dang it,
I should have filled up last night when the price was a "mere" $2.99
9/10. Overnight, it had jumped to $3.09 9/10!!! The oil companies
sure seem to be monitoring my activities this year -- everytime I go
on a trip, the prices head up again. Oh well, what's a guy on
vacation going to do? At least I knew that I'd be saving money by
filling up before I crossed the border.

It was hazy again but the lake was relatively calm as I headed
north. I couldn't help but think that Hoz and I should have started
the trip a couple of days earlier given the conditions I'd seen so
far. I stopped at a wayside not too far from the border and snapped
a couple of pics.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-004.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-005.jpg



As had been the case the day before, even with the polarizer, the
haze prevented any good day time pictures of the lake. I knew
sunrises and sunsets should be quite good though.


I soon reached the border. Didn't have to show any identification
but answered a barrage of questions. I guess I passed the test
because they actually let me into the country

Thunder Bay was a short ways up the road from there. I stopped into
a bank to change some money. I asked the teller if there was a
public telephone handy. She told me that, if it was a local call, I
could use the phone that was right there on the counter. So, I
called Richard Culpeper's office. He was out on an errand but the
receptionist was expecting me and gave me directions to the office.

When I arrived, Richard had just arrived himself. After quick
introductions we headed over to a restaurant overlooking the marina
for lunch where we had a Chinese buffet. At the end of the meal, we
were served fortune cookies. My fortune read something like "Your
leadership skills will soon be tested". Yikes! What did that mean?

For various reasons, I spent more time with Richard than intended so
it was quite a bit later than I'd hoped when I left Thunder Bay.
Richard and I said our goodbyes and he pointed me in the right
direction so I was once again on my way.

To start with from Thunder Bay, Highway 17 is quite a ways inland
from the lake. Eventually though, the road and lake run along
roughly parallel for several miles. I found another overlook where I
could take some pictures of the lake far below.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-012.jpg


From that height, the lake still looked pretty calm.

I'd pretty much decided to stay at Rainbow Falls Provincial Park for
the night. When I arrived, I was happy to hear that they still had a
tent site open fairly close to the lake. I reserved it, set up camp,
and headed further east to Schreiber where I had supper at the
Voyageur Restaurant.

When I got back to the park, I couldn't stand it any longer. The Sea
Wind came off the car and I went for a quick paddle up and down the
coast in front of the campground. When I got back to my landing, the
sun was setting and a couple were on the point watching it.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-015.jpg



I too watched the sun slowly sink behind the hills.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-021.jpg


After the sun set, I put the Sea Wind back on top of the car, and
sat out on the point in the twilight for awhile. Soon, it was time
to turn in.

-- July 8, 2006 --

The next morning broke cool but pleasant. No dew had formed on the
tent overnight so I quickly packed up and hit the road, stopping at
the Voyageur Restaurant once again for breakfast. While inside, the
sky got dark and it started pouring rain. I was glad I was able to
strike camp before it hit. When I left the restaurant, the
temperature had plummeted at least 10 degrees.

After breakfast, I gassed up the car again and headed eastward once
again with intermittent showers and even the stray patch of sun.

Richard had told me about Coldwell Harbor. Despite the weather I
decided to stop in. It was a very scenic place but, the weather just
wasn't cooperating much.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-027.jpg


There were plenty of wildflowers around, including primroses, but
they were tough to shoot in the windy conditions.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-033.jpg



So, I resorted back to scenics.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-038.jpg



Heading back towards the car, I turned around and took one last shot
of the harbor.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-02-039.jpg



Shortly after, the road headed inland once again. There would be no
more reason for stopping. When I arrived in Wawa, the sun was
shining and it was warming up once again. I stopped in the
information center for directions to Naturally Superior. I thought I
got what I needed and hopped back into the car, heading east once
again. I eventually figured out that I had missed a turning and went
too far east. I found a spot to turn around and finally found NSA.

As I pulled in, there was a van with 2 canoes on top in the parking
lot. A man was busy pulling equipment out of the van. As he saw my
car, he stopped what he was doing, smiled, waved and walked in my
direction. "Nibi Mocs I assume" he said as he approached the
car, "there couldn't possibly be a second Sea Wind around here!". It
was, of course, Hoz. I think he and I had met once before, very
briefly, one year at Canoecopia. Other than that, we'd only known
each other through the internet.

We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening getting our gear
sorted out, handling the fees with the outfitter, eating supper at
the lodge and getting acquainted with other guests. Then, it was
time to turn in. The real trip would start the next day.

-Larry

We'd planned on traveling 20-25km a day (roughly 12-15 miles). On our
first day, with the wind and the waves, we'd only managed 2-3 km. Not
an auspicious start. Have we bitten off more than we can chew? Should
we turn back in the morning and call it quits?

The winds did die towards evening and the sun came out and the lake
didn't look quite so angry anymore. We'd have to see what the morning
brought.

In the meantime, after Bernie delivered us back to the beach, Hoz
went
to bed but, for me, golden hour was just beginning. Time to go to
work!

Our Campsite at Picture Rock Harbour:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-040.jpg



There was a rock just off of our campsite, with a streak of white in
it, that was quite attractive in the late evening sunshine.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-045.jpg



Another view of the rock with Bernie's boat anchored in the bay.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-048.jpg



The same fires that made things so hazy for day time pictures,
predictably made for some very nice sunsets.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-052.jpg



And, equally predictably, I couldn't help taking several pictures

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-059.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-062.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-064.jpg



The color lingered even after the sun had set.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-072.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-075.jpg



Eventually, I took one final shot and then headed for my tent. It was
already getting very chilly. It would turn out to be the coldest
night
of our trip.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-081.jpg


-Larry

Did I mention that the temperature dropped while we were on our way
from Michipicoten to Pukaskwa Park??? It was downright chilly when
we got to the park -- even for a Minnesota boy!

We stopped at the gate to get our permits. "I doubt you'll be going
anywhere today" said the ranger there, "she's pretty rough out
there!" We enquired what would happen if we couldn't get out and
were informed that they'd put us up at the campground until the
weather improved.

We had the shuttle driver go ahead and take us to the beach that
serves as the usual put-in point. Then we got busy unloading the
canoes and all our gear for the trip from the van. We gathered it
all on the beach and then went to visitor center to get our pre-trip
briefing.

The first nations ranger was clearly doubtful when we first started
telling her of our plans to paddle the coast in decked canoes. "Have
you ever been on Lake Superior before" she asked? I said I'd only
spent a little time around the Apostle Islands. "You know it gets
rough out there and you really need to keep an eye on the weather?"
We acknowledged that and a few other things. After we'd related a
little of our experience (especially in bear country) she seemed to
relax a little. Still, she repeated over and over proper storage of
food to protect from bears, watching out for reflected waves from
the coast, and other dangers somewhat unique to large bodies of
water like Superior. Finally, she seemed satisfied that she'd done
everything in her power to make sure these 2 fools in front of her
were as prepared as they could be, signed our form and wished us a
good trip.

Back at the beach, 2 groups of kayakers were making preparations to
head out. One of them was the guided trip out of Naturally Superior
Adventures that we'd met the night before. They began their shuttle
2 hours before us but were still on shore getting last minute
instructions from their guide, Jason, as well as trying to pack all
their gear away. The other group, which we called the "Blackfeather"
group, also had arrived at the park before us and were also
receiving instructions from their guide.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-001.jpg



Jose and I started preparing our canoes for the trip and one of the
advantages of using canoes was plenty obvious as we quickly slid our
packs, as is, into the hulls. No unpacking and stuffing gear in tiny
holes for us! I was the first to get loaded and pushed out into the
cove. Plenty of protection from the wind there and, although there
were some wind and waves, I felt comfortable paddling around the
cove, waiting for Hoz to complete his preparations.

Soon, he was done and we left the kayakers on shore as we headed for
the mouth of the cove. We thought we'd just take a look and see how
rough it was before deciding whether to go for it or not. We paddled
to the mouth and all the fury hit us. Plenty of wind and 3 foot high
waves were what we paddled into. Unfortunately, once we were headed
into it, neither one of us had the nerve to try to turn around so we
just resolutely paddled forward.

I paddled a little while into the waves, not paddling hard but
enough to keep me going. I glanced back to check on Hoz and he was
way behind. I tried to wait for him but it felt like trying to stay
upright on a bicycle that wasn't moving. So, I paddled a little more
gently this time. Next time I turned around, he was even further
behind! We quickly came to the realization that we were unmatched --
not in paddlng skills but with respect to the craft we were each
paddling. This mismatch would haunt us for the whole trip although
there were times we used it to our advantage.

We rounded Campbell Point and headed back towards Playter Harbour
with a little protection from the Northwest wind. Me paddling
gently, just enough to make headway, while Hoz was paddling as hard
as he could behind me.

We paddled across the narrow bay and around another point,
unsheltered once again, and decided we needed to find a place to get
out of the wind. We had a pair of FRS/GMRS radios along and I told
Hoz to turn his on. I'd take a quick look around the bay ahead of us
and let him know if there were any good landings.

The first place I spotted was definitely a "desparation" site. A
cobble beach, steeply sloped with hundreds of trees strewn around
it. On the way to look at it though, I'd caught a glimpse of a sandy
beach. I radioed my discovery back to Hoz "There's a sandy beach but
we'll have to share it with a motorboater" I told him. "That's fine
with me!" was the answer.

I made my way to the beach and found that it was quite long and
fairly flat. It wouldn't provide us any relief from the wind but at
least we could get off the water. Hoz came paddling in shortly after
and we decided to put my CCS Lean2 up facing away from the wind so
we could get some shelter. Now, trying to put a Lean2 up, on a
beach, with the wind gusting up to 30mph can be quite challenging.
We were just starting our 2nd attempt when the motorboater pulled up
in his Zodiak. "What are you guys doing?" he asked as he walked up.
From the tone of his voice, it sounded like a challenge, like he was
about to try to kick us off the beach. "Trying to take shelter from
the wind" Hoz answered. He looked out at the lake and nodded his
head "Yeah, he said, no one should be out in that". He then started
helping us set up the tarp. Since stakes weren't holding in the
sand, we found heavier pieces of driftwood to anchor it with --
sometimes two logs in parallel were needed to hold the nylon sail in
place. When we finally had it secured, the three of us took shelter
under it and made our introductions. His name was Bernie and he
lived in Thunder Bay. Apparently, he, and his dog, Hobbes, quite
often went out for multi-day cruises up and down the coast. After
chatting for awhile, Bernie returned to his boat while we finished
setting up the rest of camp.

About supper time, the wind began to die and the sun started freeing
itself from the clouds. We'd just finished cleaning up when Bernie
came back again and invited us over to his boat for coffee. We took
him up on his offer and spent a good part of the evening drinking
coffee and peach juice, talking, and listening to the unique music
of Jimmy Driftwood.

Jose on Bernie's boat:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-004.jpg

Bernie:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-005.jpg

Bernie's dog, Hobbes:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-006.jpg

The sun starting to set

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-007.jpg

View of our camp from Bernie's boat

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-009.jpg



With the sun sinking toward the horizon, Bernie took us back to
camp. We said our good-nights and he headed back to his boat.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-011.jpg


-Larry

The temperature bottomed out somewhere around a chilly 40°F
overnight but, we were greeted with a clear sky and very light
breeze when we awoke.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-017.jpg



While we were packing up, we had one more visit from Bernie and
Hobbes before they pulled up anchor and continued on their way. We
soon packed up ourselves and ventured out onto the lake. If Gitche
Gumee had given us a peek of her ugly side the day before, today she
decided to woo us with her charms instead. There was only a light
chop and small swells as we paddled out of the harbor that had
sheltered us overnight.

Hoz Paddling on Lake Superior:

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-019.jpg



With the water so calm, we were able to paddle close to shore
without having to worry about the churn of reflected waves. I loved
looking down into the crystal clear waters, watching the rock
structures slip by underneath me, imagining what it would be like to
scuba dive here (well insulated from the cold water of course!)

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-024.jpg



Towards noon, I started exploring all the small bays, looking for a
suitable lunch spot, while Hoz stayed further out, keeping a
somewhat straighter line due to the mismatch in speed between our
two boats. I found this beach, with a slightly rocky landing and
radioed Hoz to come ashore.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-030.jpg



Hoz soon joined me.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-032.jpg



After lunch, Hoz decided to try out his sail.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-036.jpg



But, there was so little wind, I still was faster. He moved out onto
the lake to try to catch more wind while I stayed on the inside of
the islands since that afforded more picture opportunities.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-040.jpg



Just beyond Fish Harbour, we came to Cave Harbour. As we entered the
harbor, it was easy to see how it got its name.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-041.jpg



It was just not windy enough and Hoz had to give up on sailing.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-045.jpg



Oiseau Bay was our intended destination for the night but we were
surprised at how quickly we got there. We discussed moving on but I
was struck with how scenic the bay was and insisted that we stay put.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-046.jpg



There were some backpackers camped on the main beach on the bay but,
there was a smaller beach nearby that was screened from their camp.
We headed towards that and it turned out to be a very nice campsite
on the edge of a small creek.


-Larry

We had a very fine sand beach for our campsite -- in fact, we ended
up camping on sand almost every night. While there were definitely
pluses to this, the downside was that we got sand into everything.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-048.jpg



In complete contrast with the previous day, the temperature rose
considerably. After setting up camp, I took a quick dip in the lake
to cool off and then did some exploring.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-050.jpg



After supper, Hoz once again tried some sailing while I explored the
bay in my canoe.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-051.jpg



When we'd first entered the bay from the north, a prominant rock
caught my attention at the south side. As part of my exploration, I
decided to check it out.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-086.jpg



As the sun started slipping towards the horizon, I hurried back to
camp, disturbing a beaver along the way. I wanted to get back to
camp for sunset photos. But first, there was time to get a picture
of Hoz's boat pulled up on shore.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-089.jpg



One of the reasons I rushed back was that I thought I'd be able to
get a picture of the sunset with the creek in the foreground. It
didn't work out quite as expected but, still ok.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-092.jpg



After taking a couple of shots with the creek in the foreground, I
relocated to the beach. Once again, distant forest fires provided
excellent sunset conditions.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-101.jpg



As I was shooting, a gull briefly landed in the bay and then took
off again.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-104.jpg



The clouds were so interesting, I switched to the 80-400mm lens so I
could pull them in closer.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-113.jpg



The colors started fading, the temperatures started dropping, and
the bugs started coming out. One more shot and then it was time to
head to bed.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-03-125.jpg


-Larry

While I posted these in order, the timestamps somehow got mixed up so
they're listed out of order.  I guess I'll need to space these out a
little more in the future.

I'll be posting more segments as I find free time to prepare my
pictures.

-Larry

Larry,
No apologies necessary.  What great posts and fantastic photos.
Looking forward to more.
Paul

Looking back on it now, I think Tuesday, July 11 was probably the
best day of our trip both in terms of weather and scenery. I think
it was also our longest day on the water although I seem to recall
that we got a late start. In any case, I took a lot of pictures
starting with this one of our canoes on the beach, patiently waiting
to be loaded.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-054.jpg



The lake was even more calm than the day before as we finally got
underway. Thanks to the calm, I was able to stick close to shore,
where the pictures were.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-056.jpg




There were plenty of rock islands off shore to shoot as well.
Weather worn, these bare outcrops took on interesting shapes with
the only sign of life being the orange lichens and the occasional
gull.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-062.jpg



The variations in color in, and on, the rocks were unbelievable.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-071.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-076.jpg





Although all I was shooting was rocks, water and sky, I couldn't
stop.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-080.jpg




I really enjoyed this morning, paddling the rocky maze.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-081.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-082.jpg






And, I liked watching the rocks underneath the clear water as well
as the ones next to me.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-086.jpg




It was fascinating pondering on the history of these rocks with
their imbedded veins and assorted colors and patterns.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-093.jpg




Not all the islands were barren. "One Lake Island" was large enough
to sustain abundant life above the rocky shoreline.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-095.jpg




We decided to pull off for lunch on a gravel beach just to the north
of the mouth of the White Gravel River.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-05-110.jpg

I wasn't on shore long before I'd dug out my good camera. I hadn't
been able to get to it in the canoe but, given today's conditions, I
soon remedied that!

Jose's canoe on shore near the mouth of the White Gravel River.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-004.jpg




We stopped for about 1/2 hour and then continued on our way. On the
other side of the river, the beach, and lake bottom, turned to sand.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-008.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-010.jpg





The lake was calmer than it had been in the morning. A haze was
forming, making it difficult to see the horizon. It was getting down
right sultry as well.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-022.jpg




Jose definitely couldn't sail this day. With the heat, he decided to
dispense with his shirt -- and his pfd.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-023.jpg

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-024.jpg





The offshore rock islands were lower in this section but were the
only objects deliniating the interface between water and sky.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-031.jpg



The shoreline was rugged but low.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-034.jpg




Occasionally, the offshore rocks came close to shore.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-036.jpg



Jose was frustrated by the lack of wind but I wouldn't have minded
this weather lasting for the rest of the trip.

http://www.lhrimages.com/pictures/other/ls0607/ls0607-04-038.jpg